The West Side of Rokin, Part 2

A short history of Amsterdam’s Rokin was already discussed in the post “The east side of Rokin”, with the uneven numbers. The west side of Rokin holds the even numbers and runs from Dam square to Muntplein. Because the west side of Rokin is quite a stretch, I have split it in two parts: part 1 covered Rokin from Dam to Spui, in this post we will take a look at Rokin from Spui to Muntplein.

Looking south on the west side of Rokin, from Arti towards Munt­plein (August 2023).

Spui

Between Rokin 110 and 112 is the eastern exit of the Spui, which was water until 1882. Read about it in my earlier post about Spui.

Arti et Amicitiae at Rokin 112, around 1870. The Spui was filled-in in 1882 (A. Jager, Stads­archief Amsterdam).

Rokin 112 – Arti et Amicitiae

Artists’ society and art gallery Arti et Amicitiae (Art and Friendship), at the corner of Rokin and Spui, was constructed in 1841-1855, their gallery hall designed by architect M.G. Tétar van Elven. This was Holland’s leading art society then. The building has undergone many renovations over time, the original exposition hall restored. The façade uniting three buildings was created in 1856 by Jan Leliman.

Front of the Arti et Amicitiae building at Rokin 112 (February 2022).

The ox head on the pediment is the symbol of St. Lucas, patron saint of painters. Sculptor Franz Stracké created the four statues adorning the front in 1855, representing architecture, sculpting, painting and engraving. The wooden originals are now inside the building, the outside ones are casts made in 1989. Below the windows of the first floor are portrait medallions of 16th and 17th century artists. Architects H.P. Berlage and A.C. Bleys designed a new interior with oak staircase in 1894, when the main entrance was moved to Spui. In 1964 the building was restored again and the entrance was moved back to Rokin.

Ox head (symbol of St. Lucas, patron saint of painters) on the pediment of Rokin 112 (February 2022).

Rokin 114 – Maatschappij tot Redding van Drenkelingen

The white building to the left of Arti is from around 1800-1850, but has internal remnants which are two centuries older. Above the entrance you can read the text Maat­schappij tot Redding van Drenke­lingen (Society for the Rescue of Drowning Persons), who bought the building around 1850 and still use the hall on the first floor. Remodeled in 1902, it was bought by foundation Arti Monumenten in 1997 and restored in 1999. The ground floor (114A) houses gallery DSIGN.Amsterdam, who sell objects of Dutch design (also on Staal­straat 13A and Amstel 176A).

Text above the entrance of Rokin 114 (November 2023).

Rokin 116 – Best of Both

Note how the building at Rokin 116 is exceptionally crooked towards the top. Built in 1733 and remodeled in 1881, it has two sculpted heads on top of the gable and three statues on the first floor. Once this was art dealer Waterman, now it’s jeweller Best of Both on the ground floor and apartments above.

Rokin 108-110 to 130 (right to left), seen from Oude Turfmarkt (August 2023).

Rokin 118 – La Panetteria

House from 1709, the front from 1915, restored in 2020-2022. Etienne Delaunoy Antiques was here from 1936 to 1951. This was Tempo Team employment agency for quite some time, now it’s La Panetteria, an Italian bakery.

Rokin 120

This house from 1755 was changed and redesigned by architect Izak Gosschalk in 1871. Tailor F. Wente had a shop here around 1890, he also sold ladies clothing at number 122. Antiques, silver and jewelry merchant Premsela & Hamburger (founded in 1823) were here from 1953 until 2000, when they moved to Rokin 98. For a while there was a dental clinic on the ground floor, which closed July 2023.

Detail of the façade of Rokin 120, changed by architect Izak Gosschalk in 1871 (February 2022).

Rokin 122 – Mathieu Hart Antiques

The house dates from 1735, the doorstep and ground floor front changed after 1898. Art dealer A. Vecht was here from 1926-1935. Mathieu Hart Antiques, started in 1878, has been here on several floors since 1942.

Rokin 124 – Betty B. Tattoo

Building from 1711 with a wooden shop front from around 1900, showing a crown with two eagles and the words Czar Crystal. Hogendoorn & Kaufman, who sold glass, ceramics, crystal, porcelain and tableware, were here from 2013 until 2019. Now it’s Betty B. Tattoo & Piercing.

Rokin 118 to 148 (from right to left), seen from the Allard Pierson at Oude Turfmarkt (May 2022).

Rokin 126 – Agnes B. Clothes

House from 1756, changed in the first half of the 19th century. From 1927 until 1954 home to art dealer Carel van Lier, who organized exhibitions of modern art. He was deported during WW2 and died in 1945 in a concentration camp, his widow continued the art dealership after the war. Now Agnes B. clothes.

Rokin 128 – De Drie Graefjes

House from 1804, remodeled around 1930, with Restaurant De Drie Graefjes (The Three Little Counts). This is their second lunchroom, opened in 2011 (the first Drie Graefjes is located at Graven­straat near the Nieuwe Kerk).

Rokin 130 – Drie Graefjes American Bakery

This house from 1770 with a 17th century gable has a gable stone from around 1650, showing a rough diamond, probably a sign used by a cutter of precious stones. Now it’s the Drie Graefjes American Bakery, where they bake products for their lunchrooms.

Rokin 124 to 152 (from right to left), seen from the Allard Pierson at Oude Turfmarkt (May 2022).

Rokin 132 – Amici

House from 1827. In the 1960s this was a passage from Rokin 132 to Kalver­straat 175. Since 2022 it’s Amici, an Italian restaurant.

Rokin 134 – Dunkin’

House from 1729, the monument rebuilt in 1969. Now Dunkin’, a donut shop.

Rokin 136 – Hollister

Building from 1827, with the entrance on Kalver­straat 179. Claudia Sträter clothing store was located here from 1971 until 2019. Now it’s Hollister, a chain retailer with Southern California inspired clothing.

In the center the Bonneterie building at Rokin 138-148. Olieslagerssteeg to the right of it (August 2023).

Olieslagerssteeg

Between Rokin 136 and 138, to the right of the Bonneterie building, is the Olie­slagers­steeg (Oil Millers Alley). Oil millers crushed various seeds to retrieve oil and were active here in the 15th and 16th century. The famous Haarlem Oil was sold here in small glass bottles as a panacea (cure-all) for many ailments and afflictions. It consisted of terebinth oil, sulfur, purified turpentine, resin and many other secret ingedients. The official Haarlem Oil had been invented by teacher Claes Tilly in 1696. In the 19th century many copies flooded the market, because the firm had neglected to renew the patent. Because sailors and missionaries always carried it with them, Haarlem Oil became famous all over the world.

Rokin 138-148 – Bonneterie

Joseph Cohen and Rosa Wittgenstein opened a shop at Kalver­straat 181 in 1889, called De Bonneterie. Rosa Wittgenstein was the niece of Sally Berg, one of the founders of Hirsch on Leidse­plein. They bought several other houses on Kalver­straat and Olie­slagers­steeg and ordered a new building, designed by architects Albert Jacot and Willem Oldewelt (inspired by the Parisian 19th century fashion stores). Built between 1900 and 1910, it occupied the entire stretch between Kalver­straat and Rokin. The Bonneterie was located there from 1909 to 2014, the building a national monument since 1974.

Interior of the former Maison de Bonneterie, now H&M (November 2023).

During WW2 the shop was looted by the German occupiers and all Jewish personel were fired and later deported. The founders were given a pass to Portugal in 1942 in exchange for some very valuable paintings and from there they moved to the USA. Near the stairs inside the building a plaque commemorates the 68 Jewish staff. Since 2015 the building is used by Swedish fashion firm Hennes & Mauritz, or H&M for short, official entrance on Kalver­straat 181-183 and Rokin 140.

Remaining Maison de Bonneterie inscription on a column of Rokin 138-148 (November 2023).

Blindekatersteeg

The Blindekatersteeg (Blind Tomcat Alley) lies between H&M and Rokin 150. The alley is not shown on any maps and these days it’s just a dead end between the houses. The origin of the name is unknown and very little can be found about its history.

Rokin 150 – Bulldog Gottahaves

Building from 1777, now Bulldog Gottahaves, a souvenir shop.

Rokin 152 – Shanghai Noodle

House from 1788, now Shanghai Noodle.

Rokin 154-156 – Hotel des Arts

This hotel is located in two identical houses in Louis XIV style from 1733, built by mason Cornelis Knijff and carpenter Pieter Moock, commissioned by the Maagden­huis on Spui.

On the left Rokin 164 and Sint Joris­steeg, up to Rokin 148 on the right. Hotel des Arts in the center (August 2023).

Rokin 158-160 – La Place

These twin warehouses with black front date from 1768. Together with Rokin 162 now La Place Restaurant.

Rokin 162

At Rokin 162 is now La Place restaurant, entrance also on Kalver­straat 201-203. To the left of it is the St. Joris­steeg.

Sint Jorissteeg

Between Rokin 160 and 162 is the St. Joris­steeg (St. George Alley). Between this alley and the Olie­slagers­steeg was the St. Joris­hof (from around 1350), a leper colony, then just outside of the city. The chapel of that hospital in 1624 became a guild house for carpenters (Kisten­makers­huis), demolished in 1901 when Maison de Bonneterie was built. The alley, closed off by V&D in 1934, was made accessible again in 2018.

Het Boompje, Former Catholic Church

Until 1911 there was a Catholic church where the former V&D building is now. It had started in 1628 as Catholic hidden house church, dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, in a building on Kalver­straat 213-215, a former beer brewery. In 1661 the front on Kalver­straat was made into a double normal house gable. After several adjacent buildings were acquired, the hidden church was enlarged in 1676. A large renovation followed in 1730. The church front on Rokin was made to look like three regular warehouse fronts, because Protestant rules still prohibited Catholic external displays. The ground floors were house and office for the clergy, the church was on the first floor.

Former Catholic church Het Boompje (The Small Tree) at Rokin 168, before 1911 (Stads­archief Amsterdam).

The hidden church was replaced by a larger building in 1771, when the three warehouse gables were replaced by a normal church front, designed by architect M.G. Tétar van Elven. By 1910 the church had become quite derelict and the terrain was sold to Vroom & Dreesman, the church demolished in 1911. The gable­stones with small tree which adorned the entrance are now attached to the Boomkerk (Tree Church) on Admiraal de Ruyterweg 406, which also holds much of the original interior.

Rokin 174-164, former department store Vroom & Dreesmann, in 1930. On the left the side wall of Muntplein 2, former insurance company “De Nederlanden van 1845” (Paul Guermonprez, Stads­archief Amsterdam).

Rokin 164-168 – Former V&D Building

Anton Dreesmann (1854-1934) and Willem Vroom (1850-1925) both had textile shops and decided to work together in 1887. The department store of Vroom & Dreesmann, the complex between the Rokin and Kalver­straat, consists of a combination of different buildings which have been renovated several times over the past hundred years.

Rokin between Muntplein and number 156, viewed from Oude Turfmarkt. Muntplein on the left (August 2023).

The large warehouse Vroom & Dreesmann, created by architect François Caron in 1912, had entrances on Kalver­straat 213-215 and Rokin 168. During the 1930s the complex was completely remodeled by architect Jan Kuijt.

The second part of the complex consists of a 19th century building by architects Jacot and Oldewelt on Kalver­straat, now restored, and two 18th century warehouses on each side of the Sint Joris­steeg, an alley between Rokin and Kalver­straat which was enclosed in the building in 1934. The warehouse at Rokin 164 dates from 1768. V&D (short for Vroom & Dreesmann) was located here until 2016.

Former department store Vroom & Dreesmann, seen from Oude Turfmarkt. On the right the St. Joris­steeg (August 2023).

Architects Office Winhov remodeled the complex in 2016-2018 and made the Sint Joris­steeg accessible again. A new entrance in the alley gives access to offices on the top floors. Today the complex houses online marketplace Catawiki on a few floors. Chinese electrical car company Zeekr will use it as a showroom for their cars and loading systems.

Rokin 174

On the corner of Muntplein and Rokin is the building “De Nederlanden van 1845”, designed in 1895 by H.P. Berlage (Muntplein 2-4, Kalver­straat 223, Rokin 174). The building, created for an insurance company, was enlarged and changed in 1911.

Building “De Nederlanden van 1845”, corner Rokin and Muntplein (November 2023).

Aerial photo from 1930, Muntplein in the center, left Vijzelstraat and to the right Rokin (KLM Foto, Stads­archief Amsterdam).